Nazaré Itinerary: A 2–3 Day Plan for the Town and the Cliffs

Take the funicular up to Sítio rather than walking, at least on the way up; the ride is short and saves your legs for the cliffs. At the top, the Santuário de Nossa Senhora da Nazaré anchors a broad square, and the two adjoining viewpoints, Miradouro do Suberco and Miradouro da Nazaré, sit on overhanging cliffs roughly 110 metres above sea level with the beach laid out below.

Walk a little further to the quieter Miradouro de São Brás if the main platforms are crowded, and look in on the blue-and-white Ermida da Memória chapel at the cliff edge. Late afternoon is the best light for photographs back over the town. Walk down if you have the knees for it, or take the funicular back.

Eat down at sea level, where the fishing heritage shows on the menu. Percebes, the gooseneck barnacles harvested from the local rocks, are the dish to try at least once, and fresh seafood generally is the reason to eat here rather than anywhere inland. Simple tascas near the seafront will do the job.

Portions in Portugal are generous, so order fewer dishes than you think you need and add bread and olives only if you want them, since they are usually charged. Check the day's fish by weight before committing. Restaurants here keep their own closing days, so pick your evening by what is actually open rather than assuming Tuesday is safe.

Make the fort and lighthouse your morning. The Forte de São Miguel Arcanjo, a sixteenth-century defensive structure, now holds the Farol da Nazaré and the main lookout over the Atlantic; entry was reported at one euro, but treat that as a historical figure and check the current charge on arrival. You cannot drive right up to it, so walk from Sítio or take a tuk-tuk.

On the way you pass the big-wave gateway and the deer-with-a-surfboard sculpture, which has become the town's photo stop. Nazaré holds the Guinness World Record for the biggest wave ever surfed, at 26.21 metres, and the fort is where you appreciate that number. Allow two hours including the walk and the viewing.

From the fort, follow the dirt path down to Praia do Norte, the beach where the giant waves break. In one corner of the beach, the Forno de Orca cave opens through the cliffs with a circular hole in its ceiling, an odd and photogenic sight worth the short detour. The water is cold Atlantic, so this is a walking and watching beach rather than a swimming one.

Give this half-day three hours if you want the cave and a proper look along the sand. Watch the warning signs about wave height rather than testing the waterline. Then walk back up to Sítio for a late lunch.

If the swell is flat or the weather turns, swap Praia do Norte for the Mercado Municipal da Nazaré, where the fish and produce stalls give you the town's working life in one room. Pair it with the outdoor boat display and the fish-drying exhibit if you skipped them on day one. This is the low-swell substitute that keeps the afternoon full.

Aim to reach the market in the morning, when fish stalls are at their best, and keep the afternoon for a slow wander and an ice cream. Gelatomania is the local ice cream stop if you want something specific to aim for. This version of the day suits anyone travelling with children or without a car.

For a third day, choose between a walk up Monte de São Bartolomeu for the widest view over Nazaré and the coast, or the Miradouro da Pederneira for a gentler panorama over the town from inland. Both reward the climb; the first is the more strenuous and the better photograph.

If you would rather leave town, the Mosteiro de Alcobaça is the obvious half-day out, a UNESCO-listed Cistercian monastery within easy reach. Keep it to the morning and you are back for the evening. The alternative towns further north, such as Aveiro with its Ria de Aveiro canals and moliceiros, belong to a separate trip rather than this one.